The chef, we learned, had called his mother for a reminder of her much-loved sauce recipe just that morning. Next up was a serving of charred sardines with a spiced tomato sauce and root greens. Pretentiousness is not on the menu here, just a good, unfussy atmosphere. Testament to their “people” principle, the team were good natured and laughed my poor table manners off, encouraging us to get our hands dirty as the evening went on.
Then to the appetiser, a polenta and burduf cheese croquette with an almost equally-sized serving of herb butter that doubles up as edible poster-paint if you, like me, are prone to making a mess from the outset of your meal. A beetroot Kir Royale eased us into the evening, certainly the most glamorous root vegetable I’ve ever had the joy of sampling.
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